Travelling to Poland during the Cold War years
Travelling to Poland 1960's/70's

We travelled to Poland every year since I was 6 months old. It took 3 days by train and ferry. I loved every minute of it. (pic courtesy retours.en)
We booked through a company Fregata and Tazab Travel.
The journey entailed:
- Taxi from home to Manchester Piccadilly Station.
- Over night Sleeper to London Euston.
- Taxi across London from Euston to Victoria Station.
- Overnight sleeper from London Victoria to Harwich ferry.
- Harwich overnight ferry to Hook Van Holland.
- Overnight Sleeper from Hook Van Holland to Warsaw!
- Taxi from Warsaw to Lodz.
3 days yes it took that long and although I didn't have very good sea legs I loved it.
Mum used to pack around 5 or 6 suitcases. The old school large plastic bound ones that were very awkward to carry. Thankfully we always had assistance from people nearby so it was never an issue.
People were helpful in those days no Walkmens or Ipads to ignore you with.
Even at the tender age of 8 I had to carry 2 cases that were bigger than me!
You can't imagine my excitement. I love travelling always have, but not planes which are purgatory for me, really boring and sat down for so long is not my idea of fun. Don't even set me off about coaches, although we did go on a coach to Poland one year and I hated every minute of it! Never again.
About 7 pm dad saw us off to Manchester and came back home in the taxi.
During the late 1960's and early 1970's they still had Steam engines which I still love today althought replaced by Diesel later on yet my biggest memory is the smell of steam, coal, oil and smoke. Fabulous!
Maybe because it was late in the evening and always dark, I always remember being very cold as I stood there looking for a free luggage trolley on the platform.
We entered the carriage after the porter helped us load the baggage in and I was constantly peering out of the window jumping with excitement. It would be a compartment with a few other people and everyone would say hello offer sweets all very nice.
My mum was exhausted because I would not go to sleep instead choosing to peer out of the window, all the new things to see.
I don't remember much of the trip to London but it was stressful (I could tell my mum was particularly stressed) finding another trolley then a Black Cab. Once loaded up, the trip across London was also exciting but then it really was the big smoke! Very grubby smokey and noisy place I didn't like it and honestly not a fan today either.
The same fun unloading at Victoria Station, mum would find a trolley and dash to the correct platform and we got on the sleeper train.
The seats dropped down above your head and converted to beds. Once again load the bags in and I was STILL awake still excited but eventually nodded off.
When we reached Harwich and my memory is a little hazy but I am pretty sure the train drove onto the ferry then we got off into the ship. Sometimes we had a cabin sometimes not but I always remember a particular trip with a very rough sea, everyone was sick I mean everyone, not the best memory. Top tip, book a cabin in the middle of the ship if you can (minimal pendulum effect.)
8 hours later arrived in Hook Van Holland.
The train was ready for us on the other side and we would get on. This was my favourite part of the journey and the longest.
The train left Hook Van Holland and passed through the Dutch countryside which looked beautiful with canals everywhere and fields of colourful tulips, very flat.
We crossed the border into West Germany, where the landscape was totally different. Cute wooden villages and rolling hills and forests.
We had to go through Berlin which at that time was split East and West.
The train entered the station and would stop.
Military border guards with rifles and angry looking dogs would get on the train and you had to show them your passports and Visas.
They might have asked you to open your luggage so they could check it. In the meantime they also checked the underside of the train with the dogs, just in case anybody was trying to sneak in.
After 30 mins they disembarked and waved the train through.
I always remember going over an Iron girder bridge across a river immediately afterwards and you were in East Germany.
The countryside again changed it had rolling hills but didn't seem to look as bright or alive as the West side? Strange I remember all of this in detail?
On one trip we were in the last carriage, the loos were at the end, if you dropped some loo roll down the loo and flushed it, quickly sped out and looked down the track you saw the loo roll in the middle of the track disappear into the distance! Strict rules everywhere saying not to use the loo at the Stations! I expect they have poop tanks under the trains today.
After a very large number of hours we reached the Polish Border where the train stopped. I can't remember the name of the station but the next one was Poznan, then straight to Warsaw.
I think they changed engines in Poland? You would see lots of PKP (Polish State Railways) coaches along the tracks and mostly steam engines everywhere. The Polish engines looks more like American prairie type engines but outlined with white markings. I wish my memory was as sharp today as it was then.
Eventually we arrived at the main station in Warsaw. I remember it being underground like the London Underground with lots of dim regular lights along the platform and very cold!
Hop off the train look for a trolley, load the bags on there, move to the Taxi rank.
Sometimes Grandad would make the trip from Lodz to meet us or mum's brother would and take us in his car (which I remember was a lorry).
The trip to Lodz would actually be the most hazardous (if you have ever seen Polish drivers). The lasting memory I have is the incredibly strong smell of cheap poor quality petrol!
Finally we arrived in Lodz and stayed with Grandad, it was another adventure.
Off we went, presents in hand from the cases and visit all her friends and relations, people mum had left behind.
The saddest part was visiting her mum's grave which she did every trip then years later Grandad's.
The rest of the time we rode on the trams, I absolutely loved the trams.
During the earlier trips, Grandad would take me on the tram, I was so excited I didn't realise I was still in my slippers and travelled to town with them (as you do!)
These earlier trams were the rickety 1930's ones , very angular and wooden seats, later on they were more modern and comfy, I say comfy.....
Typical White over Red livery.
I loved the Polish single decker buses. Like something from 1950's America, affectionately known as cucumbers (ogórek)
Jelcz 043 they were called for all you bus geeks.
Getting inside was fun they seemed to be really wide and went on for miles.
Some had trailer cars attached later they even had joined ones with a swivelling floor and concertina around them.
Very noisy very smokey and one day I hope to ride one again for old times sake.
The rest of the time we used Taxi's since they were very cheap.
My favourite ones were the pale blue FSO Warszawa M201 Garbus (or fast back).
These absolutely stunk of petrol from the engine and fags, everybody smoked in those days including the taxi drivers.
I hope to sit in one again just once, although they seem to be quite rare or used for wedding cars instead so all painted white.
The return trip was just as stressful and exciting! Mum had loaded all the baggage with tonnes of stuff from Poland.
- Clothes
- Dried food/herbs/mushrooms which her Auntie had picked for us from the forest especially.
- Tea towels, everything was wrapped in them to protect things from breaking. Like the umpteen bottles of Polish Vodka she used to bring back!
- Polish Crystal which mum collected (that's another Blog).
- One trip a full Photographic Developing lamp, which I have.
- Another trip a full folding bike (that I assembled until 01:00am one night in Grandad's flat because I was so excited).
- Bedding
- Host of other things I can't remember.
For the return trip, we had a large cooked pork shoulder, which we would slice a piece off and cut some bread on the train as lunch, snacks, something you can't do today.
Once home, I was so exhausted, after we offloaded the bags it was straight to bed, the best sleep I ever had.
The next day we opened up all the bags and see how much survived?
This is the reason I found a mountain of immaculate never used Egyptian cotton tea towels in mums sideboard when clearing the house out, complete with Polish price label intact from the early 1970's.
Made me smile and brought back all these holiday memories.
To my shame I have not returned to Poland since 1978!
Yes I know, perfect candidate for one of those Channel 4 documentaries - the man in a time bubble!
I began secondary school, then college, then dad was ill, then work started and it just never happened?
I intend to correct that soon but it will be a bittersweet journey and maybe I am scared to spoil all these rose coloured memories I have?
Who knows? I will write a blog and take lots of photos when I do.